Sophie Rogerson : Origami For Fashion

Transformational Reconstruction

My second week studying Fashion Design at UEL involved more creative thinking and trial and error as we experimented with a technique called Transformational Reconstruction (TR). This method is a more creative take on traditional pattern cutting and often achieves a different but better outcome than desired at the beginning of the process. The method requires manipulation of paper patterns a lot like the skills acquired when learning origami; once again showing that fashion is an art form. TR involves working with paper patterns on the stand to create a 3D pattern. I began by creating a basic shirt front pattern using a block. I marked on the darts and cut up one side of each dart. I then pinned the paper onto my mannequin and used it to mould the darts into place and secure them with sellotape. I drew my TR design onto the pattern making sure that the style lines went through the bust points. I then marked notches onto the lines and removed the paper from the mannequin. I lay the pattern piece flat and as the paper overlapped in certain areas; I snipped this away and replaced it in an area with more room. I then pinned this pattern onto clean pattern paper, traced around it and then removed it. I added 1 cm seam allowance to the pattern, notches and then cut this out ready for use. I repeated this process again with a different design. I like this technique a lot as it allowed me to adapt a basic block pattern into something unusual and original that could be shown on the catwalk today. Once the TR technique is understood, flares and gathered volumes can be added into the seams of the style lines with ease; giving the garment technical range and intrigue.